as mentioned i have borrowed 51MONSTER2’s idea of having a blog type post to show of my efforts as i work on my models and terrain for wasteland warfare, so jumping strait in my first two mutant founds from the PVC core set i apologize in advance for the mold lines as i was having difficulties cleaning them from the PVC versions of the models once i have worked thru my current purchases i intend to buy a core set in resin due to this.
For those interested in the colors used i mostly stuck with the army painter range
I primed the models in army painter white
for the flesh i then base coated with goblin green
then gave it a wash in flesh wash to bring out the recesses
(for a bit of variance on the second one i slightly highlighted with scaly hide)
then dry brushed with necrotic flesh
for the mouth such as gums and tongue i used barbarian flesh
and the teeth i used skeleton bone
washed these parts with flesh wash being careful to not get it on the face where it was already dry brushed
then a very light dry brushing of mummy robes over the teeth.
Still to do on is clean up the trim on the bases on that note i would like some input as i cannot decide between black edges on all bases for my models or to paint the trims certain colors to link the various factions together for example the mutants will have green edges, or when vault dwellers drop have blue or yellow trims. also will be adding dead static grass tufts when my local model shop gets there stock in.
Looking really nice. I think the color combinations you used would be perfect for the Super Mutants, for the dogs I think when I get to them I’ll handle it the same way you did, only I might use a green that is slightly lighter in color.
I think the dead grass will look great on your model bases.
Will be looking forward to seeing more!
Base trim: I was actually thinking of doing different colors per faction. Green for Super Mutant, Brown for Creatures, Silver for Brotherhood, etc.
yeah gatekeeper that was my train of thought as well on the trims i might have to try it on one and see how i feel about it just don’t want them to be overly distracting from the models them selfs, in regard to the coloring i think to bring the brightness down next time i might start with scaly hide green and go for a light green wash then dry brush with the necrotic flesh and a further extremely light dry brush of skeleton bone to bring the green back down a touch.
If you’re still looking for different things to do with the Mutant Hounds, I’ve decided I’m going to paint up a pair of mine as “Glowing” versions. That might give you another color scheme if you’re still looking for alternate options.
yhea thats a good idea i liked the idea of your suggestion of doing one of the deathclaws as a glowing variant i thinking going for a osl type affect would work well for that but i would need some practice before i can pull that off well on organic type things
I’ve been looking at the images I can find of the Deathclaw model, and it looks like the grooves will be deep enough to do the glow effect fairly easily.
What I’m thinking is that I’ll start with a coat of yellow/green to get all the deep spots where I want the glow effect. Then I was looking around and saw a couple of places that have a clear “Glow in the dark” paint that I thought I’d paint the model with next. After that, I’d do a lighter brown coat, kind of like a heavy drybrushing so most of the model was that color but avoid covering any of the yellow/green in the deeper spots. After that a yellow wash to dirty the model up a little bit. On the belly, I’d do a light drybrush of the same brown to bring out some highlights, then do a heavy drybrush of either really dark brown (Just a shade or two lighter than black) for the back.
My hope is that will give those nice glowing cracks and give it a softer looking belly than back. And if the glow in the dark paint works, I can sit it in the window for a little bit before putting it on the table and turning out the lights for it’s introduction. Basically I’m hoping for a darker shade of the model Modiphius painted with the glow effect.
rustoleum has both a spray and paint on glow in the dark in both green or teal I have only tried the spray on teal one as i used it on a project for a 3d printed harry potter wand for my nephew its mostly clear but it does leave a slightly gritty texture and have a very slight tinge to it so white becomes a slightly of white its not so bad on deeper colors but its worth noting
this from was from a test piece i did with it at the time the smaller boat on the right is sprayed with it both are done in the same plastic and settings just slightly smaller
Thank you very much for the sample image. If the teal looks that good, I imagine that the green would look even better for “Glowing” models.
I think for “Organic” models, the gritty won’t be an issue, but I suspect it would be if someone ever wanted to use it for smooth surfaces.
Something else I was thinking about: You said you have the spray paint version? How is it for consistency? Thicker/looser than normal paints? Or about the same? (Odds are I’ll get a bottle of the stuff rather than the spray, but the product consistency should be similar between them. Or at least as consistent as spray vs bottle usually is.)
I’m actually wondering how something like that might work as a wash on models. For something like a Glowing One, it might work well to do a yellow undercoat, hit the raised areas with a tan color, wash it in glow, then drybrush the raised places again. Might be able to get a deep glow, with the brighter spots pooling in the deeper cracks and around the boils.
Guess it will be something to experiment with when the time comes.
i cant speak for the paint on stuff put the spray on goes on as easily as any other spray paint i have used as with all spray paints best leaving it in some water a bit warmer than room temp before using it but other than that nice and easy if i can remember correctly from when i picked up the spray the paint on comes in a small tin similar to tester pots of house paints,
if you were to use the spray on i would probably paint as normal till you do the base coat of the main colour use your wash as normal then hit it with the spray then clean up the raised areas and dry brush on the highlight shade that way the normal looking darker recessed areas will glow when dark, if i get a couple hours spare tomorrow i will dig out a old model to test this theory on before committing to it on of of the fallout ones
I was just thinking to myself “I finally know what I can use those extra Mutant Hounds for.” I think when I get to it, I’ll use a couple of them to figure out the best method before working my way into the models I want to keep (Mutant hounds don’t look like they have as deep of creases, so they’ll be a bit harder to do than the Deathclaws, so if I can get it down for the Hounds, anything else should be a breeze.
an update on the glow in the dark spray just tested it on a model undercoated in black and painted relatively dark and the effect isnt as good i will give it another go on a duplicate of the model done in the same way but in lighter tones to see if that helps it.
I was thinking a yellow or green undercoat would work best for something like that as it would set the base color for the “glow” effects. Then the darker shades being layered on top.
with the dark one the effect is to weak to realy pick up well in a photo but i have two more of the same thing so i could try the green or yellow along with the lighter one
That is really cool. I bookmarked the site you linked with the video. I’ll take a close look at it once I have my models and am getting ready to start painting.
Ooh that does look good immediately thought that it would be useful on some radioactive barrels for scenery possibly with game affects such as hurting smoothskins and buffing mutants and ghouls when I get home I will be ordering some of this stuff
but today i present you with a terrain center piece inspired by General Atomics Galleria’s giant mr handy in fallout 4 is a big prototectron for now just the main colors have been applied he still needs weather damage