OK guys, I thought I’d share this with you because there isnt much out there in terms of lighting ideas for modular, mobile wargaming terrain. The model railway guys have lots of stuff, but it’s all 12V DC via mains transformer and permanently wired into their dioramas. Lighting modular wargaming terrain presents some unique challenges. Everything has to be mobile and self contained, which means small, efficient and battery powered.
We’ve all seen the tea-light campfires and I dont know how you feel about them? But I think they look naff. Mainly because the base is an inch and a half high …so people create these mounds of filler and rubble with a fire on top, which usually runs at eye level to the minis. Doesnt work for me, I’d rather do without. But this is the 21st century, there has to be other ways of doing it right?
Fortunately, there are options. Lots of em as it happens. The problem is figuring out the right approach. For me, it has to be cheap, easy, functional, realistic and at the end of it, it has to actually add something to the atmosphere, or it’s all pointless. I dont want tea lights covered in goop.
So lets start with the selection of LED’s…
They come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colours. You can get big ones, huger ones, pico ones, strip lights and so on. Most of em are a bit specialist and for our purposes, 99% of what we want will be either 3mm or 5mm standard. That refers to the diameter of the bulb. The other values we need to know, is what voltage they run on and how much current they consume. In terms of current, almost all of em are 20 milliamp (20mA sometimes written as 0.020 Amps). A 20 mA LED is perfect for us, for reasons I’ll come to in a bit. This shouldn’t be taken for granted though. It’s an important value and if you see LED’s for sale and they dont tell you what current they use, move on. There is no shortage of people selling them and they are cheap as chips.
The voltage is also important. Most white LED’s are 3 volts, but coloured LED’s are usually less …usually 1.8-2.2 volts. This is also an important value, because in most cases, we will be powering them with 3 volts from our battery. If our LED runs on 3 volts and our battery is 3 volts, then we can direct drive the LED. This means running the LED directly from the battery without any additional electronics and without the fear of our LED getting over-volted, overheating, burning out, excessive battery drain and so on. Fortunately, most LED’s are very voltage tolerant and can be run out of spec (within reason) without much of a problem. Generally, you can direct drive a 2 volt LED from a 3 volt battery, it’ll just run a bit brighter and a bit hotter than it should …and it’ll probably have a reduced lifespan.
More about LED’s later, but for now I’ll just say I’ve been experimenting with some different types. Different colours, some flickering and so on. I ordered quite a few and soldered them onto little bits of stripboard. I know I said you dont need additional electronics, but I wanted to test these running perfectly in spec, so I made sure the voltage was balanced by a matched resistor just so I know how they should perform…
In practice I would just wire them straight to the battery.
On the point of batteries…
I’ve looked at a few options and it’ll be no surprise that CR2032 coin cells is the way to go. They have a nominal 3 volts, they usually have a capacity of around 220 to 240 mAh and are at their optimal when the applications have a low current draw of around 20 mA. BTW, with coin cells, the numbers refer to the diameter and the height of the battery. So a 2032 cell is 20mm in diameter and 3.2mm high. A 2016 cell, is the same diameter and half the height …and so on.
So 2032’s are pretty much the perfect size, they are reliable, long lasting and suit the application …they are also cheap. I found a seller on Amazon selling 100 for £12.80 …that’s 12.8p each. Now consider your 20mA LED can run for a theoretical 12 hours on a 240 mAh battery and you have a running cost of 1.06 pence per hour (per LED). You can have a table with 20 LED’s and run them all for a 4 hour session and it would cost you 80p. I think that is pretty cheap.
There are other options, obviously. If you have the space inside your model thern rechargeable AA’s or AAA’s are the way to go. They are the cheapest of all, but they are comparatively bulky and unsightly.
On battery packs and switches, I think I have found the perfect off-the-shelf solution. Now dont laugh, but the solution comes from the world of kids crafts and girly textiles. There is something called -e-tectiles ,basically people sew LEDS and electronics into clothing using conductive thread. Well there is a company called Lilypad which has started doing components for e-textiles off the shelf. But because they are designed to be hidden in clothing, they are ultra low profile …which is very useful. Here is their 2032 switched battery pack…
and the reverse is nice and flat for sticking onto surfaces and such…
Nice logo eh? That’s all for now, but I’ll keep you updated with my experiments. Here’s a quick shot of a prototype I’m working on…
If it works out it’ll be a flickering yellow LED tilley lamp powered by a cr2032 in a lilypad.
I’d love to hear what solutions you guys have come up with for lighting? Do you think it’s worthwhile or a fad?
Cheers, Coop.