I am not a new painter by any stretch but is anyone else having issues priming the models? I’ve only ever had to use a soap bath with a couple of models in all my years of painting , but the fallout resin models are almost waxlike in their resistance to primer. Even after 2 soapy baths I still cannot get slightly thinned vallejo primer out of an airbrush to stick on most models, I even tried priming a bust at the same time to prove consistency of primer was good (same technique i have used for over 8 years) and still primer does not attach to the twice washed and dried fallout minis but it is perfect on the unwashed bust…only ways i have managed is either using a sonic bath for cleaning or purer primer with no thinning which obscures the details and clogs the airbrush up completely. I might switch to a different primer and see if if it is something about the vallejo which is the issue, just never had it on the hundreds of models I have primed before from other manufacturers.
I’ve had no problems using Vallejo’s primer through the airbrush, I think it might be a problem with your cleaning method. I’d recommend reading through the Forge World working with resin guide as it seems to be one of the best resin mould release agent cleaning methods out there in my opinion. Forge World guide: https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/resources/fw_site/fw_pdfs/Modelling/Working_With_Resin_Models.pdf
No problems on my end either primer went on fine.
@MandaPii cheers for the link, I had done soapy water to clean them, but avoided the tooth brush. Using the sonic bath is working fine so I am just using that instead now. Just never had this with any resin kit from other manufacturers before, but then again I am more used to 75mm resin than 32mm and never bought forgeworld before.
I always use a toothbrush and soapy warm water. I’ve only primed/painted about a dozen mini’s so far, but have had no issues. I’m also using Vallejo primer through an air brush, thinned down with Vallejo airbrush thinner.
Okie I thought it was just me, I went back to touch up a couple spots I missed with my rattle can with some paint on primer and it just would not stick. I might try the sonic bath at work with the next group I get.
I wash my figs in warm water with Dawn dish soap and a stiff toothbrush. It’s the best for cutting all kinds of grease and oil. I then rinse them really well and let dry. I do this before assembly as it seems to help with that step also.
Washed in soapy water and then used Army Painter colour primer. No issues on all but one figure (Nuka Girl), and that was easily fixed with a brush.
Not a fan of resin figures generally speaking and if it were not Fallout, unlikely to have any really. This reisn is kind of soft compared to others I have experienced and I do wonder about paint’s longevity even sealed.
Have you tried matt sealing the figures before applying primer? That has helped me with some other figures. Might be worth a try.
Not a bad idea as Matt varnish takes paint well enough.
Had the same issue with rattle can Rust-Oleum flat black primer.
I never even bother washing my models and never had any problems but FOWW minis would not hold the primer at all, it rubs off with just rubbing the finger on it, even after washing them.
I’ll try isopropyl alcohol followed by the most aggressive dishwasher soap I can find.
If that doesn’t work, last resort I’ll use TSP industrial degreaser.
Man, what kind of mould realease do they use?
EDIT: Well, washing helped a bit but the primer still wouldn’t hold very well. I’d very much like to know how you guys get definately rid of the mould release agent they are using.
Hey there.
What models are you having issues with priming?
Models made in house (New Vegas onwards and all Elder Scrolls minis) do not use mould release.
It has been noted several times that there is a certain amount of surface tension resistance with the models that does make priming a little interesting.
I did some research with three primers (Vallejo airbrush, Ammo airbrush and Halfords rattle can primer).
The Vallejo/Halfords were the best for total coverage on the first pass, giving decent coverage, wheras the Ammo had flaking issues.
What I have found with further experimentation is that the first layers of paint need to go on a little less thinned than I usually would to give decent coverage. If it starts to bead don’t worry, let it happen and fully dry, then add a second layer. This seems to defeat the beading and give decent base coats.
Its worrying as it first happens I know, but I’ve worked with samples primed with all three options listed above and all three ended up giving perfectly fine coverage with two or three slightly thicker base coats even over beaded/flaked primer.
I’m still researching more options as I have some new primer leads to try out.
Hopefully that helps explain that while it certainly does happen with the minis, it can be overcome without any effect on the final paint job.
Its unusual, I won’t lie, hence why I am still researching it.
I have the issue with Raiders.
My fear is that if I start painting over flaking primer, the paint will flake right along the primer over time.
Maybe it’ll hold with varnish though.
Ok, raiders are the original non Modiphius resin.
So far, my best advice is prime, let it cure for 24+ hours, then lightly rub with a toothbrush or similar to remove any flaking.
Then give a second prime, this one should stick.
I have also done the first step and then gone straight to base coats and not found that it flakes off from there.
I’ve ordered up a new primer to try and will report back once I have more information.