What about partially burying it under rubble, and adding other details to turn it into part of a larger scatter terrain piece? It wouldn’t be as versatile as the free standing resin one, but then you could cover up the areas affected by the loss of detail (and you’d still have the resin one for when you want just the car by itself)
@Alateir: That idea reminds me of something that occurred to me with the undercarriage – presently, I have the undercarriage section glued in with some Tacky Glue, but I’m half-tempted to pry it back loose, and add some detail to the (now-hidden) upper side of the undercarriage segment, in hopes of using it to represent a “blown up” Corvega Coupe. My thought is that I could leave the shell on for the intact car, and then when someone has to go shooting the thing and blowing it up, lift off the shell and leave the “wrecked undercarriage” right there to mark where it once was. (Either that, or I need a bunch of craters for my cars.)
^^^
Assembled car with some “rust” and grunge. I spray-painted the shell green, then went in and painted the windows and “chrome” areas a dark “Pavement Gray,” and spackled more Pavement Gray on the shell for rusty spots. I then did some smaller spackling with Pumpkin Orange and then Golden Yellow within the grey “rust spot” areas, and did some fine lining with Granite Gray to try to emphasize transition between the areas where rust was coming through and flakes of paint were still holding onto the car.
I then went and drizzled the whole thing with some dirty wash from the bottom of the paint water jar. Normally, that does nicely for grunging things up even more, but this had the unfortunate side effect of bringing out the striation even more, since it tends to settle in the troughs. Bad move on my part.
^^^
I couldn’t find an obvious place to put a license plate (and I didn’t get any help from in-game images), but – eh, I don’t care if the modelers forgot to put license plates on the in-game models: it needs a license plate! So I just glued it on to the back like so.
^^^
Here’s a bottom view of the undercarriage. Nothing quite says “wrecked car!” than tipping it on its side or rolling it over entirely, as a quick tabletop shortcut. (Okay, really, I suppose ACTUALLY wrecking a toy car will get the message across, too.) Anyway, it’s pretty easy to see where the “undercarriage” piece is separated and could just be popped out.
^^^
Just another view of the model. The tires are gone, but the windows come completely intact. I didn’t feel like taking my chances with the Dremel with the PLA (the filaments sometimes melt, or “string-cheese” on me in unexpected ways), so I just tried painting in hints of cracks on the windows.
The model looks really good to me. The cracked windows are awesome. Only sticking point I have with the model is the rings on the hood.
An idea for the hood: Get a little checkered pattern item, white and red. Print it up/cut it out, and use it like a blanket for a picnic. Put a little basket on the middle and lay two skeletons across it, make it look like a couple was having a picnic and using the hood like a table.
Those cracked windows are amazing!
And I think the idea of buidling up the bottom plate for exploded cars is a great one. Nothing like a bit of mid game rearrangement to add to the immersiveness(*) - it makes you feel as though you are having a real effect on the world
(*) If that is even a word…
@Info_Overload: I love “destructible terrain.” ;D In video games, it gets silly when I’m running around with a device that can launch SMALL NUCLEAR WARHEADS, yet I can fling it at a flimsy corrugated tin shack wall with no lasting effect. (It’s amazing what’s blast-proof!) On the table, I like to be able to remove items as they get blown to bits – but somehow, yeah, it’s more satisfying when I actually have a “wrecked” version of something, or some sort of crater to put in its place.
I remember seeing somewhere that washes and dry brushing don’t do well on 3D printed models. The rust colours look great though, and those painted cracked windows are fantastic!
@Alaiteir: Exactly – I can see that dry-brushing would be possibly even more counter-productive than washes, since the intent for dry-brushing is most assuredly to make shallow details “pop” more.
Anyway, I finally finished up some tires for my “restored” Corvega Coupe:
I basically just made some epoxy putty tabs and wrapped them around the exposed areas of the wheel rims, then did a bit of work to trim off excess and shape them until they were at least somewhat similar to each other in shape. I did a bit of knife-work to put in a very, very basic hint of a tread, so it wouldn’t look like the tires were completely bald if I flip the car model. (Although, I suppose bald tires wouldn’t be unheard-of! It’s got to be hard to find tires in good condition 210+ years after the factories closed down … unless, of course, there might be some robot-run factories somewhere still putting out new tires. Now THAT would be something to fight over!)
I’m likely going to call it a day with the red resin car for now (although I went back and did a bit more rust/spackling work on the PLA green car), but later I think I may try adding some armor plating, screen over windows, mounted weapons, etc., to “Mad-Maximize” it as a road-warrior’s vehicle. I’m not sure it would ever be practical as such with how low it hangs to the ground (and there just wasn’t enough room in the wheel wells to give it bigger tires).
For now, I’ve got some vague plans for it for a mini-adventure in “Vault 66” (i.e., a vault experiment with a re-purposed particle-acceleration ring and some other underground areas turned into a race track and drag strip as part of a weird Vault-Tec experiment to “keep the American spirit of automotive culture alive” – and eventually spawning a bunch of machine-head car-warrior gangs once the vault opened). But if I were to go with that, I should have probably painted it up in a blue-yellow Vault-Tec scheme, with “66” somewhere on it. Eh, I’m sure I’ll paint up more cars. I can do that later.
I guess it’s not really tin, it must be some advanced composites to have survived 200 years. And the wood mut have petrified due to radiation…that’s the only way to explain the orbital laser death ray in New Vegas annihilating groups of enemies but not shrubbery
The restored car looks great!
If they were keeping the car culture alive the cars would all have custom paint schemes so that people could identify them easier while racing. Or something
That looks brilliant, I love the restored tyres! If you hadn’t said it was 3D printed I wouldn’t have known, it’s much smoother than most 3D printed things I’ve seen
Apparently the official STL Modiphius released is of such good quality that even low resolution prints come out great
@Info_Overload:
Good point there. I’m a fan of the Atom Cats, and would love to get a chance to do some “hot-rod” style power armor … so I certainly shouldn’t shy away from the opportunity to paint up some “actual” hot rods, Fallout-style.
One vague idea I had – and I’m really not sure how to implement it – was to do a Super Mutant Road-Warrior squad called the “T-Wrecks.” They made a cameo appearance in the “Long-15” scenario I ran for Necronomicon a few years back, but there the vehicular combat only took place in N-scale – using a bunch of modified Micro Machines and other similarly-sized kit-bashed “road-warrior” vehicles, on some Hot Wheels track.
The T-Wrecks took the form of some cartoony “hot rod” Micro Machines with some humanoid torsos sticking out the top, but this was a last-minute kit-bash, so the result was rather crude. The idea was that some crazed super mutants had at least one “smart” original super mutant from the Master’s army in their number, and he had restored and modified some vehicles to accommodate super mutant drivers – but they’d have to stick out the top, and the controls would have to heavily modified to accommodate them. (In other words, I was going for an Ed Roth “Kustom Kars” vibe.)
There’s no official super mutant mini that I can imagine I can realistically hope to “kitbash” into the proper shape to be a driver – at least, not just a simple cut-and-reposition by any means – but maybe I could work with a few “donors” from some HeroClix or other minis of similar proportions. I recall a very beefy Mage Knight zombie that has its right arm sticking out in a “punching” motion, and maybe, just maybe, that could help with an arm-swap to be clutching an out-sized gear-shift.
I guess I’d need to take the Coupe and modify it heavily, putting some new rear tires on it to raise it up in the back, carve a hole in the top (I’d probably have to remove the gull-wing doors entirely for it to make any sense), and have some sort of ridiculous engine sticking out. (Not gas-powered – maybe a modified fusion generator unit. Hmm.) The thing is … should the Coupe’s original engine be in the front or in the back? I can’t tell from this model where it might be.
Front because there is an intake on the front for cooling the engine while moving
I’d guess front personally, as the back looks more like a boot/trunk to me. That said, if Modiphius come out with a model of the fusion generators from Fallout, you could probably stick that in either the front or back and say it was customised to be an engine by the super mutant
Supermutant hot rodders would be amazing!
It would take a fairly amazing amount of work as well, on the car and the drivers!
I think the engine is more likely in the front as well. But hey, they are custom hot rods who’s to say they haven’t moved it from the original location so there’s more room for mods
@Alaiteir: Even better would be if they came out with an STL of the fusion generators. I don’t know if it’s possible, but it’d be neat if I could use some sort of model editor and re-scale the fusion generator so it’d look small enough to be plausible as an “engine” sticking out the front of the Coupe, and then basically merge it so it’s clipping out of the hood – and that’d save me a bit of kit-bashing.
@TheOldBadger: Good point! In the high-res resin cast, the front grill is very distinct. I mean, if the engine were in the back, I suppose some hand-wavy explanation could be made that there are air vents redirecting the air from the front scoop toward the engine in the back … but that sounds overly convoluted.